Jordan

Jordan, my long time childhood friend who has easily transitioned into my adult bestie, visited this past week. So fun! We hung out in Antigua for a couple of days and then headed to Monterrico, the loved/hated beach on the west coast.

Our travel experience was really typical so I'll tell you about it. We scheduled the shuttle to Monterrico on Thursday. They kindly said they would pick us up outside of the church in San Felipe, which is why we chose this agency. Usually, we have to walk into town which isn't so fun with baggage. We woke up early, made our way to the church at 7:45 and waited for the shuttle. At 8:35, we called the "emergency number" to find out where the heck they were, but the phone was disconnected. We waited another 15 minutes and then took a tuk tuk into town. We got to the agency at 9 where they told us that the shuttle was not running. But not to worry, they could take us the following day at the same time. No, we said. We're packed and ready to go now, we don't have that kind of time, so just refund our money and we'll be on our way. Well, they didn't have the money because they deposited it already. "So, let me get this straight. I paid yesterday to go on your shuttle, you decided it isn't going to go but you don't have the money?" Yes. That is what happened. So Jordan and I decided I would deal with it later and then we would look for another agency. We found one that left at 1, so we dropped off our bags and had some fabulous crepes from Luna de Miel. We made it to the beach late, but with time to enjoy the sunset. We swam as much as possible on Saturday and Sunday, fried our back sides and read great books. A couple of Guatemalan friends met us at the beach on Saturday, so we went dancing that night. We had a great time.

Okay, so on our way back to Antigua, we booked the last shuttle at 4 pm. When we got in, they had too many passengers, so they ask us to sit on the laps of the guys who were accompanying us. It was so hot and the drive is three hours, so we really didn't want to. Jordan tried to protest, but the lap she was going to sit on, said okay. So we piled in the car, all 21 of us, Jordan and I on laps of two guys we barely know. Sweating. Jordan gave the driver a dirty look which he mistook as a sultry one and lifted his eyebrows to say "call me". In the end, the ride wasn't that bad, at some point I was able to squeeze in between the guys and Jordan sat on my lap.

When she left on Monday, we took the chicken bus into the city because all the agencies were booked. I found this odd, because they usually let everyone squeeze in. But it worked out because the chicken busses are an experience in and of themselves. The chicken busses are old American school busses painted bright colors. They all have an sticker outline of this naked woman pasted on the front window. Then in cursive some sort of prayer to God to watch over the trip. Everyone piles in, no one is turned away. Three to a seat and in the aisles as well. Our bus wasn't packed so we had our own seats. We reminisced about riding the bus to Exeter early in the mornings in high school and what a treat it was when one of our parents would take us (rare). It is way more fun here with all the vendors who come on and sell delicious treats and random booklets. Every so often someone will get on the bus and make a five minute speech about a skin cream or a math book. Then everyone buys what is offered. Nuts are a favorite. I buy fruit. We got off at the mall, walked around a bit and then Jordan took a cab to the airport. Total cost, de ida and vuelta $8.50 for the both of us. So we saved $1.50. And we got to spend more time together.

Education Reforms

The education system in Guatemala is lacking, that's for sure. Yet, there seems to be some good changes recently. According to UNESCO; 92% of girls and 96% of boys were in elementary in 2006, in high school 37% of girls and 40% of boys. Part of the problem with lack of enrollment in secondary education is that the students have to work to help support the family and school isn't free. There are two types of schools here, private and public. The private schools are expensive and the public schools cost as well. It isn't much, but it is per child, so for the large families, the money is signficant. I couldn't find exact figures, but my Spanish teacher thought around $30 (210Qs) per kid, plus shots to attend and mandatory uniforms. According to BBC, most Guatemalan families live on $2/day.

With the new president, Alvaro Colom (2008-2012), one of his main platforms is education reform. He has authorized the government to pay for the registration fee as well as the shots for each child. And I love this part, to weed out those who can afford to pay for the shots, they have decided to only give free shots to 40 people a day. This means that those who want it are at the hospital early in the morning, often before 6 waiting to get a number. It isn't vale la pena for the families who can afford to pay it, so they don't come. If you don't get a number today, you can return tomorrow. The government is also footing the bill for supplies like pencils and paper. To make sure that the school year begins with the students ready, they have postponed the school year until Feb 1. Usually summer break ends Jan 15, the two weeks will be added to the end of the year. To combat children working instead of attending school, a program is in the works to give each family in need $40/month. But brick by brick, my citizen.

Prense Libre, a Latin American newspaper wrote that last year, about 50,000 were in school for the year, this year 350,000 are expected to enroll. I wasn't able to verify the number because the articles I need are in Spanish, but even assuming the margin of error is really high, it seems education is more accessible under Colom. I haven't read any articles though about hiring more teachers or opening more schools, but maybe they'll address that problem once it arises (...in February?). According to UNESCO, the student-teacher ratio in 2007 was 31 to 1, so if the new numbers are correct, many more teachers will be needed.

Kilo, 16, dropped out of school to make money as a shoe shiner. Every time I see him, I teach him something in English, the first thing he wanted to know how to say: "Lend me 10 Quetzales"

Navidad

One great tradition here is tamales on Christmas Eve and Christmas. They are different than Mexican tamales because they are softer and have a red sauce inside, but still delicious. Tuesday night began the laborious process of making the mixture and stirring it over the stove. We started at 11 pm and finished about 1 am. Then in the morning the following day, the women lug the pot upstairs to cook over fire. Once finished, they wrap them in banana leaves. Rosario sells some too. She made about 150.

Like Bingo, the Guatemalans go all out for Christmas Eve. Saira kept saying how wonderful it is, blah blah blah and I couldn´t see why because we didn´t do anything out of the ordinary. I accompanied her and her man to San Antonio to drop off a gift and saw an elaborate nativity scene at a monastery, but then we returned home to hang out. So I was surprised when the events started happening. First off, at about 5 pm, a character parade of what you might see at Six Flags came to the neighbors house. There were all types, about 30 or so. A truck with maybe five loud speakers strapped to the back, pulled ahead and blared merengue as the costumed people danced in lines up and down the street. Kids came from all over. I couldn´t stop laughing, it was such a wonderful event! Then a band with a nativity set on their shoulders came up the street and played Christmas songs. Neighbors dropped by all night to buy tamales and to rummage through the Mexican clothes Rosario sells or to drop off a basket of treats.

When I thought the festivities were over, I fell asleep at 10, exhausted from the previous night of tamale making and dancing with the characters in the street. I was awakened at 11:40 with booms of fire works and Rosario calling out to me:"Chesly!" I climbed the roof to see in a 180· view fire works in every direction, in every color - one of the most spectacular events I have witnessed. This went on until 12:15 when a layer of smoke covered San Felipe, Guayano and Jocotenango. Then we opened gifts. I got a lovely, lowcut Styles For Less-like dress, a wallet and a scarf. The biggest hit was the Spanish Scrabble game, thanks to Estevan, which we played right away.

The firework noise still continues on...

bingo, san felipe style

I will never play BINGO the same again. I went with the family to BINGO night, sponsored by the church. It was held in the soccer stadium; we went thirty minutes early to get good seats. Cards cost about $2/person. The festivities opened with men in black suits walking around the stadium and throwing candy and little toys to the crowds. Once Santa Claus came out, the game began. When someone won, they flagged down a man in a black suit who then carried a blue flag to the caller. The caller read aloud the numbers, if the person won, the crowd boo'd, if they were incorrect, the crowd cheered. The winner has an "option" to donate part of his winnings to the church. How much is donated is announced! There was one winner who opted out of the donation. Poor decision because then as he walked back across the soccer field, popcorn, chuchitos, balls and trash were hurled at him amidst shouts of angry church-goers. I didn´t win. I didn´t even come close, especially since I kept getting the 'O' 60s and 70s confused (sesenta and setenta), so a lot of false hope. I sat next to a really nice 8-year old who helped me when she could. The highlight was this dark drink reserved for Christmas that has fruit in it (plums, grapes?).


The men in black suits, Santa doing toe touches.

So many people.

fuegos artificiales

They love their fireworks here. I finally witnessed it. For any celebration, no matter how small, fireworks are set off. It´s 4th of July year round in Guatemala. I hear it all the time, but I finally witnessed it as I was walking home yesterday. There was a parade coming down a random street in San Felipe. The booms started and I took cover, only to see white lights in broad daylight. They set off maybe 25 as the parade waited. Fireworks are so important here, the birthday of the man who brought them the glorious lights is celebrated.

Baby Phat

After traveling around Guatemala for a few weeks, my bag is lighter a Spanish/English dictionary, a wash cloth, about 20 bobby pins, tweezers, a black fleece, one sock and one earring. My body added a few pounds to make up for it though. I have found my packing couldn´t have been much worse. The weather is colder than I anticipated, and I didn´t bring a jacket. So I made my way to the secondhand section of the market and bought a lovely cream down jacket, with gold buttons enladen with the wonderful signature of Kimora Lee; yes, they have Baby Phat in Guatemala. All I need are my G-Unit jeans and I would be the ultimate gringa here. In my head, I´m compiling the perfect packing list which I plan to sell to Lonely Planet to include in their next guide book with an accurate description of the weather. As well as a few corrections on their price lists.



I´m in San Felipe de Jesus right now, which is about two miles outside of Antigua living with a family of four. The girls are wonderful, ages 24 and 26. I love the food here, as proven earlier by the additional poundage. The staples are beans, cheese "queso fresco", eggs, bread and platanos. Although, I have had some tastey soups. Soups I think Lori Riley would want to make. My favorite was a pumpkin/squash one at a family´s house in Antigua. The Antiguenos call themselves Panza Verdes (green bellies) because they eat so many avacadoes. I have found the avacadoes to be a little watery though, different than the ones I´m used to in Visalia, but still delicious. Recently, in a trip to Flores, the avacadoes were amazing, just right. I made up for all the watery ones I had here.


Beautiful breakfast, lovely face.
Photo courtesy of Roger.